Cagliari

Exploring Cagliari is an extraordinary experience and, like anything wonderful, it takes time. For a deep understanding of its culture, traditions and history, you need at least a few days.

Cagliari, capital of Sardinia and metropolitan city since 2017, offers visitors a dynamic and international atmosphere typical of port cities, presenting everything one could wish for during a holiday: history, art, great food, relaxation, nightlife, sea, green areas and shopping opportunities. Like Rome, Cagliari is situated on seven hills and rises steeply, looking south and east over the Mediterranean Sea. In its current configuration, the city clearly shows the traces of the many civilisations that have influenced it: Carthaginians, Romans, Pisans, Ligurians, Spaniards, French and Piedmontese have inhabited this territory, leaving a lasting mark that has helped to define the appearance of an ancient yet future-oriented city. Today, the Sardinian capital is home to a population that is becoming increasingly cosmopolitan, living in the historic quarters and in the suburbs.

Cagliari retains intact the material remains of ancient cultures, offering a dynamic and varied urban landscape. The different historical stratifications are reflected in the various quarters of the centre, four, each with its own identity and specialisation.

The Castello neighbourhood is the only one to preserve signs of medieval civil and military architecture, harmoniously integrating with the architectural structures of later periods. It is distinguished by the famous bastions of Santa Croce and Saint Remy - the towers, such as those of San Pancrazio and the Elephant - the fascinating panoramic views and the characteristic narrow streets lined with ancient noble residences, such as Palazzo Boyl, as well as buildings representing civil and religious power, including the Palazzo Regio, the ancient Palazzo di Città and the Cathedral of Santa Maria.

At the foot of the castle lies the Marina, recognised as the liveliest and most multicultural district, known for its proximity to the port and its sumptuous arcades that accompany elegant Art Nouveau buildings. These include the magnificent Palazzo Civico or Palazzo Ottone Bacaredda, dedicated to the mayor who promoted its construction.

The STAMPACE neighbourhood, bordering the Marina, comes alive every first of May on the occasion of the Festa di Sant'Efisio, a much-awaited event on the entire island, characterised by a solemn procession that takes place between the first and the fourth of May to fulfil a 17th-century vow made by the city to its saint in response to the devastating Baroque plague. In addition to the small church dedicated to the saint, the district is famous for its numerous archaeological sites, including the Roman amphitheatre, the botanical garden, the villa of Tigellio and the crypt of Santa Restituta. The elegant Baroque churches of Sant'Anna and San Michele Arcangelo can also be admired. The Sant'Avendrace district, the oldest, offers significant archaeological evidence, such as the Punic necropolis of Tuvixeddu - the largest in the Mediterranean - and the Grotta della Vipera (Viper Cave), which are part of the modernisation that took place in the 1970s. The VILLANOVA neighbourhood is the most recent and is distinguished by its small squares, colourful one- or two-storey houses and some of the city's most beautiful churches, such as those of San Giacomo and San Saturnino. Villanova and Stampace share traditions related to the rites of Holy Week.

GREEN AREAS, PARKS AND BEACHES

Cagliari boasts numerous green spaces and includes one of the most beautiful urban beaches in Italy. Moving away from the historical centre, one arrives at the Colle di Bonaria, where a splendid Basilica connects to the park of the same name, offering a spectacular view of the port and the neighbourhood of Castellohood.

On the hill of San Michele stands the medieval castle of the same name, towering above a vast city park, which adds to the green spaces of Monte Urpinu, Giardini Pubblici, Monte Claro, Orto dei Cappuccini and the Molentargius-Saline park.

Once inhabited by wildlife such as hares and foxes and characterised by unspoilt nature, the Monte Urpinu park is now one of the city's favourite spots, thanks to its artificial lakes, picnic areas, streams and viewpoints.

The Public Gardens, one of the oldest in the city, are home to the Municipal Art Gallery and the recently renovated CARTEC exhibition space for temporary events. Designed on the model of romantic gardens, they still maintain a pleasant promenade lined with lush vegetation of exotic plants and typical Mediterranean floral species.

The Parco di Monte Claro is one of the largest parks in the city and is located on an ancient archaeological area that gave its name to an important aspect of Sardinian prehistoric civilisation, known as the Culture of Monte Claro. Today it presents itself as a place of serenity popular with families and sports enthusiasts. The Capuchin Garden was founded in 1595 on the hill west of the Roman Amphitheatre. The friars' convent had a large area for the cultivation of medicinal plants, where some ancient Roman cisterns are still visible today. The Molentargius-Saline Park is one of the most significant wetlands in Sardinia, formed after the closure of salt mining in 1985. Today, it is one of the most important places in Europe for the resting and nesting of numerous bird species, including the beautiful pink flamingo. This park, which supports a wide variety of habitats and species of community importance, also retains signs of its past, visible in the Salt City's fascinating early 20th-century buildings and old industrial machinery.

Adjacent to Molentargius Park is the Poetto Beach, characterized by the imposing promontory of the Devil's Saddle, which is now considered one of the iconic symbols of the city. Today, Poetto is considered the “sea of the Cagliari hinterland” and is one of the most important urban beaches in Europe, as well as one of the most beautiful and frequented beaches on the island, much loved by tourists visiting Cagliari, especially in summer and on any fine day during the year: it is a must-see place even if only to enjoy a coffee or an aperitif with the pleasant sea breeze.

Located a few kilometers from the center and port of Cagliari, the beach stretches from Margine Rosso, along the Quartu Sant'Elena coastline, to the Devil's Saddle, which amplifies its charm by giving a spectacular view of the lovely Marina Piccola harbour.

WHAT TO EAT/EXCELLENT FOOD

In Cagliari, food is of high quality everywhere, this is a fact. From small trattorias to restaurants and pubs, there are numerous culinary delights that will win over gourmets. It might seem that in a city by the sea, the main dishes are fish-based, but this is not the case at all! In Cagliari there are many traditional specialities to satisfy all palates! Here are some not to be missed!

The Puffed Pizzetta
There is not a bar in Cagliari that does not offer this snack, and its main characteristic is the great versatility with which it can be served. It can be enjoyed at breakfast with a coffee or cappuccino, as an aperitif, or simply on its own; the pizzetta sfoglia is the true queen of snacks.

Su porceddu sardu
Famous throughout Sardinia, ‘su porceddu’ is one of the most traditional and popular dishes of Sardinian cuisine and is a real treat for meat lovers. It is a small suckling pig (6-7 kg) that is cooked on a spit over embers. The slow cooking, combined with salting, gives the meat a unique tenderness and crunchiness, enhanced by myrtle leaves.

Sa fregula cun cocciula
Sardinian fregula is an exquisite pasta dish, similar to couscous, but with coarser grains and a distinctive flavour due to its drying and roasting method. In Cagliari, it is prepared with seafood, particularly arselle (clams) and cocciula (mussels), and occasionally with bottarga (roe).

Bottarga
Bottariga (buttariga) is made from fish eggs (tuna or mullet) that are salted and dried using traditional methods. It can be served as an appetiser, sliced and accompanied with artichokes, or used as a condiment for fish dishes, grated over pasta or fregula.

Burrida
Burrida is a dish made from dogfish (catfish), cooked with tomato sauce, garlic and vinegar, or in a sweet-and-sour sauce enriched with parsley, garlic and walnuts. Perfect as an appetiser, burrida is distinguished by its intense and unforgettable flavour.

Campidanese-style gnocchetti or ‘malloreddus
Sardinian gnocchetti are a small semolina pasta, flavoured with vegetables or saffron and served with a tomato, sausage and grated pecorino sauce.

MAJOR EVENTS AND TRADITIONS

Cagliari is rich in events and traditions, some of which are absolutely worth experiencing. In first place is the Festival of Saint Efisio, celebrated from 1 to 4 May to honour an important vow made by the city in 1652 during the plague epidemic. It is a huge festival that has been celebrated continuously for more than three centuries and marks one of the pinnacles of local faith, culture and traditions, best expressed in a unique procession that attracts visitors from all corners.

Another significant event is the Holy Week, which takes place from Passion Friday until Good Fridaywith rituals of ancient Spanish origin organised by the brotherhoods of Stampace and Villanova. Passion Friday is particularly known for the "'Procession of Misteri"which presents seven wooden figures representing the highlights of the Passion, blending the sacred and the profane in a captivating visual spectacle.

Also not to be missed “Sa Rantantira Casteddaia”, the Carnival in Cagliari which came to life in the post-World War II period, supported by historical folk groups such as the Gioc, the Gruc di Castello and the Villaggio Pescatori di Giorgino. Unlike other carnivals in Sardinia, in particular that of Barbagia, ‘Sa Rantantira’ is a lively and festive celebration, characterised by a marcetta played with drums, cymbals and bass drums, whose onomatopoeic sound inspired this particular name. 

CITY SHOPPING

In Cagliari, shopping takes place in an environment rich in art and history, along the narrow, shady streets of the older quarters as well as the wide, sunny streets of the modern part of the city. A good route can start from Via Romaoverlooking the harbour, where one can admire historic cafés, jewellery shops, and shoe and clothing shops. Still on Via Roma, an unmissable stop is at the Rinascente. Located in a historical neo-Mannerist building built between 1925 and 1930, this establishment offers six floors with the best fashion brands for men, women and children, as well as beauty and design items. In addition to the cafeteria on the ground floor, on the sixth floor is the Food Hall, which includes a gourmet market, a restaurant focusing on traditional Italian cuisine, a lounge bar for drinks and aperitifs, and a fine fusion restaurant.

For those who love ‘sustainable’ shopping and handicrafts, the small shops in the Marina district, behind the Palazzata in Via Roma, are not to be missed. In addition to enjoying the charm of a picturesque maritime village, the shopping experience in this area is enriched by the scents of traditional Sardinian cuisine, which intertwine with the exotic aromas of ethnic shops and restaurants, creating a fascinating and timeless atmosphere. There are also many shops that, in addition to artistic handicrafts (ceramics, jewellery, knives and textiles), offer gastronomic specialities (wines, cheeses, cured meats, sweets, fresh pasta) and offer tastings, both free and for a fee.

After a visit to Piazza Yenne, Corso Vittorio Emanuele and Largo Carlo Felice, one can take the historic Via Manno, which in its upper part connects to the other historic Via Garibaldi. Here, in addition to historic jewellery shops and traditional clothing shops, there are also major Italian and international fashion brands. For those looking for more exclusive shopping, somewhere between handicrafts and antiques, visits to the Castello and Villanova districts are not to be missed.

LOCAL MARKETS: GEMS OF TRADITION AND GASTRONOMIC SPECIALITIES

Local markets represent an important tradition in Cagliari. Among the vanished Mercato Vecchio at Largo Carlo Felice, remembered by visitors in the 19th and 20th centuries, the Mercato di Santa Chiara and the Mercato di San Benedetto deserve special attention.

The Mercato di Santa Chiara is oldest among Cagliari's Mercati Civici: it has been in operation since 1957 and recently underwent a detailed renovation that included, among other things, the creation of a refreshment area. It is located in the city centre, not far from Piazza Yenne, in the Stampace district, at the foot of the Castle, next to the Santa Chiara steps. It occupies part of the area of the former Convent of the Clarisse nuns, which was destroyed in the bombings of 1943, of which only a few ruins remain today. In contrast, the Mercato di San Benedetto is located in the district that bears its name, an area that was once characterised by market gardens and fields. It is the largest covered market in Italy and one of the most significant in Europe, as well as a popular destination for those in search of fresh fish, the sale and presentation of which takes up an entire floor of the market. At the local markets, one can discover a vast selection of culinary specialities, ranging from seasonal fruit and vegetables to bread, from butchery products to fish, and even sweets, wine and spirits.

Want to visit Cagliari and its surroundings? Take part in Roberta Carboni's guided tours!

Roberta Carboni has been a tourist guide and art historian for more than 10 years. She lives in Cagliari and is passionate about Sardinia, which she has loved so much, all her life, which is why she has chosen to tell its story through exclusive thematic tours. In this way, she contributes to making the island known not only to those who do not yet know it, but also to the Sardinians themselves. The tours take place both within Cagliari, i.e. in the historic centre and other parts of the city, and in the surroundings of the city, going also to the south and centre of Sardinia.

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